In this video I’m going to show you
how to fold a snowflake designed by Jared Needle. This model I folded from
normal kami paper. I started with a square that has a side length of 24 cm (9.5 in). Then the model is
about 2cm high (3/4 in) and the diameter – the distance between
these two points of the snowflake – is about 7.5cm (3 in). This model is not folded from a square,
but from a hexagon. I have a video on how to get a hexagon
from a square. You can also use a pattern / stencil. Talking about paper choice: I used normal origami paper,
often called kami, which is white on one side and
relatively light weight for this model. But if you look closely you can see that there’s
a hole right here in the center of the paper. There’s a lot of tension on that point. Kami isn’t the perfect paper,
but it’s ok-ish. I’ve even folded this from copy paper,
which is much heavier. It’s a bit harder to work with,
but that works ok, too. If you ask me what is a paper I
really enjoy using one paper is Pacon paper. I think it’s called rainbow kraft. I think it’s available in the US
and on Amazon. So if you have access to that you might want to buy this. It’s really, really very good paper
for tessellations. It’s very thin,
it takes creases very well, and you won’t get that small hole
in the center of the paper. You can also try using bread wrap or baking paper, which is also very thin. I haven’t tried myself yet,
so I can’t tell you whether you’d have that problem
with the hole in the center. So I’m quickly going to dash through
making a hexagon. If you need details
just go on to the video. So let’s get started. Fold in half. Pinch a quarter. Bring the corners to the quarter. This usually doesn’t give me
perfect hexagons, but I don’t care too much. Actually, I usually don’t care too much
to get a perfect shape with hexagons. This hexagon now has a side length of about 12 cm (4 3/4 in). Now I’ve already got
two creases on this paper. But we need to add all of them
in any case. So I’m going to add the third one. If you haven’t cut a perfect hexagon try to crease between the two points rather than bringing these points
to align the other ones. Let’s see. I’m going to be folding a white – no, let’s go with
a colored snowflake. So I’m going to invert those creases so they are valley folds
on the colored side. I actually recommend using paper
that’s white on both sides. In the video I think it helps to have
a white and a colored side. Then turn over and now crease these halfway creases
by bringing these two points together. We’re going to be folding
a preliminary fold on a hexagon. So we have to do
that three times. Then we can collapse. Just take those two mountain folds –
the creases are in the right direction, it should work out ok. And we’ve got three flaps on each side. Now we’re basically going to make
a bird base. I like to precrease by bringing this lower, open edge to the central crease. Now you can see it’s a preliminary fold because in the center there’s a corner
of the initial hexagon. If you turn it around you have have something like a
hexagonal waterbomb base. There’s just an edge here. Now we’re going to fold a bird base. First precrease. Then make an inside reverse fold. I prefer making inside reverse folds to get a bird base. If a crease is a bit off,
correct it right away. Working precisely always makes
model look nicer. This model needs some precision,
and it needs some origami skills. But fortunately one of the hardest steps is right in the beginning,
so if you master that – which I’m sure you will –
then you should be ok. We’ve got half a bird base here. Unfold that again, and then you have four more flaps,
so you can do that two more times. In this model there will be
a lot of repititions. For some of them I am
going to fast forward. [You can pause the video until
you are done with the folding sequence.] Let’s do the next step. This is the open, flappy side,
and this is the closed side. On the closed side we’re
going to take this edge and align it with that
central crease. Make a strong crease,
we’re going to need it later. Unfold and do the same thing
on the other side. The creases intersect right here. We’re going to fold through
that intersection. First pinch right there,
and then align the point with the central crease. Like this. Make a very strong crease. Then take this lower point
and bring it up to that edge. Again take the central crease
as orientation to make it straight. Then take that point again
and bring it down to the edge. This is a small precreasing step that is going to slightly make the second to last step easier. So, all the way in the end. Then unfold that. Now we want to sink in and out. This crease we’re going to sink in and then this crease
we’re going to sink out again. I’ll show you how to do that. We need to open up the model
almost completely. You’ll see that this is the first crease and that’s the second crease. This is the horizontal, central crease
when the model is collapsed. We’re going to make
mountain folds around here. Some of them already are,
some aren’t. If you can’t see the creases
all around you have to make the crease [before we
opened the model] a bit stronger, when I was saying you should
crease this really strongly. It’s a crease that’s going to be an edge in the final model,
so you don’t have to worry about it being too visible in the end. Just pinch that all around. Then try to collapse it a bit, so that
you can see the hexagon in the center. Now we have a small hexagon In the middle, and then a very small one
close to the center. We’re going to collapse on the next one. I’m going to do this as follows: I’m going to take one hand and put in
the back of the model. Then I’m going to take these
two fingers and start pinching this. I’m going to push this fold down to pinch this together,
and at the same time my hand is supporting
this point down here, which is exactly
that point up here. So pinch this together. I’m always using one finger to
push this down to pinch this together. Then ensure that this pinches
together up to that point I’m supporting.
Repeat all around. I’m making it sound quite hard,
but I’m just trying to explain how I collapse double sinks. I hope you can learn something
from it. It’s not actually as complicated
when you’ve got some practice with it. Then it looks something
like this. I’m going to open this slightly
– you don’t have to do that – to show you that now there are valley
folds all around the inner hexagon. Then you can collapse the model. Now only this section
of the paper remains. Now we’re going to do
some spread-squashs. It’s probably the hardest step,
and the one before the 2nd-hardest step. We’ve got some creases here already. Let’s make those a bit stronger just to make it easer
to perform the next step. Before we were creasing through
a lot of layers at the same time. Now you are only creasing through four
layers, so that’s ok. Up here there is an extra layer. We want to pull that layer down up until this crease.
Fold along the crease. Stabilize the model here,
pull here, push at this point to really get
the crease to go there, and then open this up. As you can see the model
does not fold flat. Once you’re at that point and you ensured that the creases
are in the right location push on this point and that point
to make them spread. Did you see that?
It went really fast. I’ll try to do it a bit slower
on the second one. I’m really putting pressure here,
so that the paper tension in this point is quite big. I can press down on three points and then push on that point. And then it will start to collapse. Then you want to make that go along the creases that exist. Sometimes it helps pulling
these two points apart. to make it pop into that crease. I’m trying to really slow this step down because this step can be
done quite quickly. Then you get something like this. Now you want to fold this back up,
but rather than just folding up – this is quite important – you first make this small
inside reverse fold. It happens almost automatically You only have to go
in with one finger and then push up. There are already quite
strong creases there. Then close the model. Now you can do that two more times, so there are four flaps left
where the step isn’t done yet. Work on these two adjoining ones,
and then these two adjoining ones. Repeat the step.
Don’t forget to add the precreasing. Once you’ve completed that step we’re now going to
open one of these flaps and then as before fold the angle bisector by
bringing this edge to the center. Same thing on the other side. Once you’ve folded both
angle bisectors we’re going to go
inside this layer – this is the bottom with many points, and this is just a single layer – and we’ll fold a valley fold
on this crease and a mountain fold on this crease. So I’m going to put one finger
inside these layers and push these two layers together and open this up. It will happen almost automatically. Then you want to repeat that step
on the other side. For that you open the model like this and then pull on this single layer
– just a single layer – to get that paper to come out and then push it inside. Then you’ve created this central flap. I’ll show that again on the next one. First fold the angle bisectors. Then we open
the model like that. Then push this down, the crease will go
in the correct location. Fold over, take a single layer, and pull it to get
that extra paper outside. And then push it inside to get this crease to be a valley fold. And continue. On the last one it kind of has the right shape already, but you still need to pull out
that extra layer. There’s no flap
down here anymore, so you have to grab in here
to pull the layer out. It’s quite important
to do that all the way around. Then you’ve got this. Now take one of the thin flaps
to the center. There are thicker flaps
adjoining it. This flap has two points,
one here, and one there. This point is going to
land right there, and this point
is going to land right there. So how does that happen? Let’s just take one. You have to pull it a bit,
so that it goes there. You can see the paper is 3D. There’s some paper tension here. We have to make a squash fold there. First press the bottom layer flat. Then push the inner, top layer flat. It should
– if you work quite precisely – fill that whole triangle area here. Same thing on the other side. Now this point goes over there. Move it over. Then flatten in the inside
of the model. It’s a bit hard to show,
I hope you got it. If not, just watch it
a couple more times. Then flatten the top flap. Precrease the center
by bringing point to point. Unfold and then fold that that flap inside
this pocket. Repeat a couple of times. Again fold over so that one of the thin flaps
is in the center On one side this is already collapsed. So it should be fairly easy. So you can just work like that. And on the other side we’re going to take that point bring it over so it lies
on that point. This helps you get more precision. Then the paper in here is 3D. You want to push it flat. So that all of that triangle is hidden inside. Then again flatten this area. Precrease. And fold inside. And continue. I like to balance out the model. Once it gets too thick on one side you can simply flip over some layers. So, now every time
on one side the step is basically
already done on one side and on the other side
you have to work. This only works if you use adjoining flaps that you work on.
I recommend that. You still have to do that step just as many times. But I think it’s easier
if you only have to worry about one. On the last one – because on the first one
we had to do the step twice – both sides should already be squashed in the center. The last one should be the easiest one. And the first one the hardest. I’m not working very precisely today. It sometimes happens to me, too. Now we’re going to take
one of these flaps. Down here there’s a white triangle. That white triangle has three areas. They will in the end form these
nice snowflake tips. So let’s work on that. You can see that there are
some extra layers here and there,
and there’s a third one there. If we look at it from the side just open one layer and then do an inside reverse fold
on one of those layers. And on the other side again make an inside reverse fold. So now – if you look at this – there’s still that single layer, and the other two layers
I showed you before now – instead of going outside –
lie inside. Then we’re going to make
a small precrease on this angle. Take this edge and fold it to that edge. Then we’re going to put this around
that central point symmetrically. See that? It goes around symetrically. And continue with all of the other ones. Then you’ve got this. Now we’re going to go back
to that stage. I put the same number of layers
on each side. And now you open one layer and on the second layer
you take this top point, open it up, and fold it
as far as it goes. So this point will lie close to the
center, but probably not quite there. Fold it down. If this step doesn’t work: Do you remember the part
where I said you need to inside reverse fold
when folding back up after doing the spread squash? If this step doesn’t work,
then you didn’t do that inside reverse fold
after the spread-squash. So, you can redo that. But let’s first complete one step,
and then I’ll try to mime that. Then you want to fold that point back up and then fold it inside the pocket. I prefer to precrease this a bit.
I take this point and bring it close to the center,
but not quite there, because the paper takes up some space. So I leave just a slight gap. And then push it inside. Now let’s see whether I can show
what happens if you didn’t do
the inside reverse folds. Oh, look, I forgot to fold
one of the flaps inside. So let’s go to the other side. The spread-squash is right there. Can you see this?
If you don’t do the inside reverse fold and you collapse it down like this then this is what the step looks like. If you fold it, there is no lock. So instead, do inside reverse fold
to get that lock. Then you can only fold that far. Then, again precrease, and put that flap
inside the pocket. But if you work precisely,
you don’t need to worry about that. Repeat all the way around. Once you’ve completed that step
you can put this into a snowflake shape. Do you remember the precrease
I did right in the beginning? We’re going to use that now,
because this is the 2nd to last step. You can also see this top point has a big hole now, because I’ve
been very rough to the paper. This doesn’t happen
if you use more suitable paper. Now we want to sink this point,
so we’re going to pull this apart a bit.
Be careful if the paper ripped in that point. Try to flatten that
so you get that hexagon to show up, the one we precreased. We want to sink that now. So what I’m going to do is take these two fingers to sink and push inside here, just pinching a bit. I’m trying to go along those creases. The precrease helps a bit.
It’s not strictly necessary, though. I made the experience
that it’s a bit easier for people if they have the precrease. Once you’ve got that pinched for each
one, you can close it up. Then you’ve got that nice star shape
in the center. To finish off the model,
we’re now just going to spread these corners. So from the bottom, we’re going to
push up and fold them up as far as they go. I’m going to show this from the back. Go on this side and that side and then fold them up
as far as they go. And then your snowflake
designed by Jared Needle is all done. I really love this model,
because it just looks like a snowflake. It’s not like a star,
or some folded paper. You can really imagine making this
smaller and it being a snowflake. Maybe a simple one,
but a very nice one. If you work with paper that
has two colors one side is almost white and the other side fully colored. But, as I said, I recommend
using paper that is white on both sides, or blue,
or whatever color you like. Hope you enjoyed this video,
happy folding, see you next time.

78 thoughts on “Christmas Origami Instructions: Snowflake (Jared Needle)”

  1. It's so amazing to see how a simple paper where all things can fold!^^
    Snow flake is one of my favourite shape, so thank u so much for uploading of this video and you too for the permission, Jared!!! One of origami model EVERR^^

    Sara, do you have your own design of origami model video tutorial to sharing with us?

  2. I've only started to try some of the models in your tutorials and I really like them. I think you have really improved on making the tutorials – it's much easier to understand and follow your instructions now than ever.
    Btw, any chance you can make a tutorial of Joseph Wu's snowflake? It looks so nice but I'm stuck at the collapsing (5th step). If you have tried it please tell me how to collapse it :(( :((

  3. booaaaah die sind echt schön =) wird wieder ne neue herausforderung ^^ für mich 😀
    ich liebe origami und egal wo ich bin ich muss iwie immer falten xD
    ob in der schule oder nach nem konzert bei mcdonalds ^^
    ich bin auch ein riesen fan von deinen tessalation videos =)
    megaaaa daumen hoch und weiter so =)

  4. Hi Sara!
    Wie schnell die Zeit vergeht! Mein erstes Video, dass ich von dir sah war die snowflake von Dennis Walker. Tja und nun ist schon wieder Winter. Meine süße fängt inzwischen fleißig das Quasseln an. Ich danke dir für immer neue Inspirationen und wünsche dir und deiner Familie eine schöne Advends- und Weihnachtszeit. Alles liebe aus Stuttgart

  5. @FlyingToasters28 Hehe, thanks. Although the most common comments on my voice (here on YouTube) are that I either sound like a robot, or have an annoying as hell voice. Ah, you can't please everyone. 😉

  6. @PickeIdY Euch auch ein frohes Weihnachtsfest. Anscheinend steht bald Dein Saras-Video-Jubiläum an. 🙂

  7. @loyalhpfan Thanks, great to hear that. I do try to improve with every video I make. As to Joseph Wu's snowflake, I'll have to give it a try.

  8. @DTvn93 I guess I could show you how to fold my eagle. But really, others have designed much more awesome stuff than my clumsy attempts. 🙂

  9. @MrOzMendez Yes, although I don't have enough time to do as much origami or kirigami as I could… 🙂

  10. @AdamsSara thank you for the answer 🙂
    I keep asking you to upload Kirigami videos.
    Please, Sara, please….
    P.S. thank you very much, I did this snowflake 🙂

  11. @SuperDictionar I think I will make some kirigami videos next year. They'll be a bit different – more about explaining basic techniques first, and then putting it together to one project. Kirigami is – from the aspect of teaching – quite different to origami, because in my opinion you have to understand the basics, rather than a special aspect of a particular model. It'll be fun to explore that.

  12. @AdamsSara
    I've just tell you when you are teaching us this model in Tabiano, but I must repeat me…

    Sara, you are a GREAT teacher!!!

    Thank you very much.

  13. Yey, I've just finished the model out of my first try 🙂 I have a huge tear in the middle but like they say "practice makes perfect". Thank you Sara for the video.

  14. @Uncharted3King As I noted in the video, I have a video that explains slowly how to cut a hexagon. No need to get impolite, just jump to that video, and then come back to this one.

  15. @musicalorigamiable Elefantenhaut wird sicherlich kein Loch bekommen, ich bin mir aber nicht sicher ob es in dieser Größe zu dick/schwer ist. Eventuell solltest Du dann eine etwas größere Schneeflocke falten.

  16. @musicalorigamiable Ich würd es mal mit nem Fünfeck aus einem 30cm Quadrat probieren. Wenn das gut geht, dann kannst Du mit kleinerem Papier arbeiten. Ich habe das Modell noch nicht von Elefantenhaut gefaltet, kann Dir also nicht sicher sagen ob die Größe dem Papier gerecht wird. Ich nehme aber an, dass es gut klappen wird.

  17. @musicalorigamiable Wenn man einen Kanal abonniert, dann wird man benachrichtigt, wenn die Person ein neues Video hochgeladen hat. Sprich, du musst nicht immer wieder gucken: Hat die Sara endlich was neues hochgeladen? 😉

  18. @AdamsSara sorry about my last comment. i was really pissed at the time because i was up all night trying to make the thing and it jusat didn't work. sorry for my comments. btw i was able to make the snow flake in time and i was able to bring it to call as my project and thanx to you i got a good grade..

  19. @STAYTOONED2ME This happens if the crease you make at 8:58 is off. I don't mind if it shows by a mm or so. But if it's more you can do two things: 1. Add another small sink in the bottom. That can give a nice touch, because you'll have another star in the star. 2. Unfold the sink and refold it with the crease done at 8:58 corrected.

  20. ok, so i wanna ask u something: how do u change the thingy name or something at the left of the thingy that says "180 videos"? (btw 180? AWESOME!) cuz i wanna change mine too! thanks in advance!!!

  21. @MrEllinas21 You can start with a square, cut a hexagon from it, and then follow this video. 🙂 I have a video on how to cut a hexagon from a square or a rectangle.

  22. @musicalorigamiable Wenn ich das Modell mal zu Ende gefaltet bekommen würde, könnte ich Dir die Frage vielleicht optimistischer beantworten. Aber derzeit glaube ich nicht daran, dass ich ein Video zu dem Modell machen werde. 🙁

  23. @MrEllinas21 You can try to make a variation on a square, but it'd obviously only have 4 points, not 6, and look somewhat different. So, in essence, probably a new design. 😉

  24. @pmielke Hehe, I think step 21 made me pause and think for a moment, too. Great to hear this helped you complete the snowflake!

  25. This is absolutely stunning! Totally worth trying….but is it still origami even if you have to cut the paper to form the hexagon?

  26. @deryer Well, sure! After all, you do have to cut a square before folding it, too, right? It's just more common to get precut squares than it is to get precut hexagons (although that, too, exists).

  27. I love this snowflake. I wold love to make it for christmas this year, but Im just starting now to make origami. So its to much for me right now!! But I will try it later!!! Thanks for the video

  28. Sara, you do an amazing job demonstrating and explaining the procedures. I've produced training videos for years and I would have hired you in a flash!. It appears you are good at ignoring negative comments about the level of detail you provide and length of the videos. Good for you! I learned many of the things you demonstrate years (and years) ago, but had forgotten how to do them. Now I'm teaching them to my grandkids.

  29. @andreasoccermaster15 You can buy it on amazon(dot)com – a friend actually sent me some squares, as they're not as easily available in Germany as they are in the US.

  30. Hey Sara, I folded it using baking paper which worked out very well! I really recommend it for this model! http://paperprojects.org/?p=463

  31. Very interesting you made a great job 🙂 If you're interested I made an origami santa claus for christmas card 🙂 thanks!

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