Hi all, this is Dana, in this video I’m
gonna be showing you about some various types of needles that you can use for
cross stitching. So I know everybody thinks so a needle is a needle but that’s
actually not the case at all. There’s quite a wide variety of needles that you
can use cross stitch only, you tend to need only a couple of different kinds,
depending on, you know, the complexity of your project and what you’re doing. So I
thought I’d cover some of the basics here so you can see what they are. So
this one here is a tapestry needle, I believe this is a size 22. It’s a little
bit bigger, the sizing for tapestry needles goes the bigger the number the
smaller the needle. I know, I don’t know why, but so if you’re using like say 14
count Aida fabric then usually a size 24 to 26 is about average for that. But a
lot of this is personal preference. You might find you prefer a smaller needle
or a bigger needle. You can get petite needles which are shorter than the
normal length needles, which some people really like because then they’re not
having to drag as much of a needle through the fabric, and if they have
smaller hands they tend to find the petites easier as well. I think John
James has some petites that are really good and Bohin is also a very good
needle manufacturer. Do try different varieties, people do have quite a wide
variety of tastes they like. So that’s your basic tapestry needle. As
you can see it’s got a wider eye so it allows your thicker threads and
whatnot to go through, and also it’s got a blunt tip. I mean you can stab yourself
with the tapestry needle, but you’d actually have to try pretty hard. The
reason is that when it goes through the fabric, you don’t actually want the tip
of the needle puncturing the fabric directly. You want it to go through the
holes that are in the fabric and that way it prevents, you know, sort of
puncturing your your floss and your fabrics. That’s why you want a blunt tip
when you’re doing your cross stitch. All right the next one I’m going to show you
is, this one’s a little tricky so I’m going to move this stuff out of the way
and see if I can demonstrate this for you. So here’s a package of
them here, these are twin pointed needles. So you can see that they actually have
an eye right in the middle. I’m going to show you how this works. The reason you’d want to try and use these is if you are using a sewing frame
or something where you’re not actually holding your hoop, you
can do this if you’re using a hoop but it’s a little trickier, it’s a lot easier
if you’re hands-free. So what I’m gonna do is bring in my little stitching frame
here. Alright so I’m just going to show you here, so you can kind of see, this is a
demonstration. This is a scrap piece of fabric so I can demonstrate, but you can
see that the eye is actually right in the middle of the needle. So this is
really handy and that this type of twin needle, it actually prevents your
stitches from becoming twisted. Like you know when you’re stitching and your hand
will automatically twist your needle slightly as you put the needle through
the thread [fabric], which ends up twisting your threads and it makes them tangle more, it
makes the coverage not as great, things like that. So that’s what the twin
pointed needle comes in and I’ll show you how it works in a second.
But one thing you do have to be careful is they are a lot more fragile
because the eye is in the middle of the needle. So you’d have to be quite careful
when you’re handling them. But basically what you’re doing with these is instead
of twisting the needle around when you come back the other way, like turning the
point around to come back, you keep the needle facing exactly like this so you
go through the fabric, pull it out the other side, go through the fabric, pull it
out the other side, through the fabric, so you’re not actually turning the needle
at all. It’s meant to go in and out almost like a seesaw. So I’ll see if I
can demonstrate this, I’m sorry it’s a little bit wobbly right now, I’m trying
to hold the camera at the same time. It’s doing this so you pull it through the
fabric and then you wouldn’t turn your needle at all. I don’t think I can
demonstrate this one-handed, but you push the needle right back through the other
side so I’ll demonstrate what I would be doing in my hand here. So say here’s your
fabric, you’re going through the fabric this way and then instead of turning
your needle which is what you would normally do, you just go over to the next
hole and push it back through. So you’re just doing this kind of motion. It takes
a bit of practice get used to because most people are used to turning the
needle when they get to back of their fabric. But it is really
cool and it does actually help your threads lay a lot better, so if you’re
really concerned about your stitches laying really perfectly and whatever
then do try one of these twin pointed needles. They’re actually really cool but
yeah they are a little more fragile, the packet actually says do not hold them at
the eye, like when you’re putting it through. So make sure you’re holding just
above or below the eye when you’re pushing your needle through, because
that’s the most fragile point is that center part. Yeah they are pretty neat,
they do come in different sizes as well. So that’s those. Another really really
cool thing is big eye needles and I’ll show you those, get my handy-dandy little pin cushion here. So this is, these are super cool like, so let’s look at that, you don’t think it’s a needle because there’s no eye
that you can see, it just looks like a little thin piece of metal. I’ve actually
seen some hilarious reviews on Amazon and places like that that sell these
needles, where people return them because they couldn’t figure out where the eye was.
And it’s like well if you ordered them, then theoretically you know what they’re
used for. So what they are is, I
wouldn’t use these for normal cross stitch, these are are mainly used for beading and really
delicate work, because it is so fine it can go through beads really
easily. What it is, is actually two pieces of metal, it’s one giant eye and it’s
very flexible, isn’t that cool. It’s soldered at the end, so neat. So you do
have to be careful, these they are very fragile. They’re a little bit bendy too,
like I’ve got one that’s like five inches long which is great if you’re
stringing a whole ton of beads and you don’t want to keep rethreading your
your needle. It’s really cool. I’m just gonna show you a demonstration of this.
So say you got your thread here, you just thread it through the eye there, so you
have to kind of hold it open with your fingers and then hey presto, done. So it’s
really cool. When do you stitching, say your tail is starting to get too short,
you just you’ll find that the thread does get a little bit pulled down to
that one end and kind of stuck a little bit, so you might have to
just pull it up a little bit, pull your thread through a little bit more to get
some more slack going and then and then keep stitching with it. But
yeah, these are fantastic for beads because they go right through those tiny
little holes and beads and makes it really handy. You do have to be more
careful they’re not quite as sharp as a normal needle, so just be careful when
you’re working through your fabric, if you’re working through layers of
stitching and whatnot just be aware that these are more fragile. So you might have
to kind of work it through the holes and work it through the fabric a little bit
more than you would with a sharper needle. Yeah these are genius and you can
put two layers of floss right here if you want to use double layer and make
sure that your beads are really anchored. yeah it’s super handy and you can use
pretty much any type of floss through here that you want as long as it will
fit through the eye of the bead. It’s really handy. So there is those, and then
there’s also the more traditional beading needles, which I’ve got some here.
These ones you just get at any beading shop. So you can see the eye on these is
really small, it’s really really small so they are actually pretty tricky to
thread. You can get special beading thread for them, but yeah, they are a
little trickier to thread. It’s hard to find a needle threader that that will go
through these and still be able to pull the floss through. So these ones you
pretty much have to thread by hand. You can see this one yeah, this one does have
a bit more of a channel on one side than the other. So in the last video I did
about how to thread your needle, I mentioned that some needles
or most needles have like a channel or a groove on one side. Some have it
on both sides, this one it’s just on the one side, so that’s the side you should
thread from. It kind of guides your thread into the eye. So beading needles are
very very fine, obviously they have to go through the tiny beads, but they are kind
of tricky to thread so that’s why I prefer the big eye needles. They’re very
handy, I like them a lot. And another needle that you might want
to use is what’s called a milliner’s needle. So that’s these here. This is great for French knots, because with a tapestry needle if you try to do,
let’s grab my tapestry needles I can show you, if you try to do a French knot with a tapestry needle, what’s gonna happen, as you can see the eye is wider
than the shaft. So you’re about to finish your knot, and then that wider eye pushes the knot apart and it blows up and you get mad
and then you start drinking heavily. So I would really recommend not using
tapestry needles for French knots, so that’s why you would want to use
something like a milliner’s needle because the shaft and the eye is all the
same, it’s pretty much exact same circumference, so you’re not gonna have
that issue of as soon as the eye pulls through the the knot then it blows a
knot apart. And these are great too for finishing and just generally like
finishing up edges or sewing pieces together things like that. It’s a good
general needle for that. And the last one I want to talk about is this really cool
one. So I was helping a woman on Facebook, helping her with some stitching issues and
she said oh let me send you some of my needles, you know as a thank you. I’m
like oh you don’t have to do that it’s fine, and so she was like no no no, I was
like fine, thank you! So she sent me these needles these are
called Easy Guide Needles and they’re really neat. I don’t know if you can see
but there’s a tiny, excuse me a tiny little ball at the end. So basically what
it is, it’s almost like a combination of a normal sewing needle and a tapestry
needle, because the little ball acts like a tapestry needle. It prevents it from
sort of getting caught up in the fabric and from puncturing the fabric. I mean
you can puncture the fabric if you try but the little ball kind of makes it
slip around and try to guide itself into the holes of the fabric rather than
going through the fibers of the fabric directly. So it’s really neat and the
nice thing about these is they’re so fine, like this is a size 3.6 and she
says on her shop page that there’s this size is good, three point six millimeters
I should say, these ones are good for a Aida, linen, hardanger, evenweave, things
like that. There’s another size, it’s a little bit bigger, that’s a 4.0
millimeters and they’re good for like 10 count Aida, six count Aida,
perforated paper, waste canvas, vinyl, things like that that,
you know a little bit bigger. But yeah, I think both would probably do well for
both of them but the nice thing about them is they’re are actually made from German steel, so they’re not gonna go black like, I’ve had this one for a couple of days
now and I really like it. Like it’s got less friction when it goes through the
fabric, and so when you’re stitching the the needle does go through the fabric a
lot easier than you know, your average tapestry needle, because you can
see the difference in diameter of the needles. I mean obviously this is a
bigger tapestry needle, but still it’s quite a noticeable difference when
you’re stitching. It’s a lot more delicate to stitch through, it is a finer
needle so I would be more careful. Like don’t start jamming it through like a
million layers of floss and you know stuff that might be caught up at the
back, just be a little bit more careful with it. But yeah I do like it. I think
it’s really cool and I’m gonna keep playing with them and and experimenting,
but yeah I do like them so far. Very happy she sent them to me. I’m
putting a link to her shop in the description below. Like I said she did
send me these for free as a gift but yeah like I wouldn’t be promoting them
or talking about them if I didn’t like them. I just I just don’t do that, I
only talk about stuff I actually use and I like. So other tips that I might have for
you, if you’re doing something like using metallic threads I would use a needle
that’s a little bit bigger than what you might use for your normal embroidery
floss. So if you’re threading your metallic thread I would use a slightly
bigger, and you know that’s actually why I keep these bigger tapestry needles
around is because they’re they’re easier for me to to use with metallics. So the
reason you want a slightly bigger needle with metallics like, this is Kreinik and
Kreinik is amazing and I think it’s awesome and it doesn’t fray very easily
because it’s actually a braid, but one issue that can happen with metallics is
if they’re like single strands or whatever is just the friction of traveling
through the eye and traveling through the fabric can make the metallics start
to fray, which makes them you know really really hard to work with. So using a
bigger eye needle reduces that friction at the eye and also what it does is
because your needles a little bit bigger, is it’s creating a slightly bigger hole
in the fabric which means the metallic can pass through the fabric a lot easier
with a lot less friction. So it is really handy to use a slightly bigger needle if
you’re using metallics, it just makes your life a lot easier and again you’re
not being driven to drink, unless you want to go drink in which case power to
you. So that’s it for now, if you have any questions please do feel free to let me
know. I’ll put some links to some of the, I’ll put the names of all the the
needles I used in the bottom of description so you can look them up and
try and find them. A lot of needle craft shops will sell these, like I got these
twin pointed needles from chartingcreations.com, so she’s a Canadian
supplier and she got those for me which was great. The Easy Guide ones are
available from her shop on Etsy, and obviously tapestry needles you can get
pretty much anywhere. But a lot of the bigger retailers like 123stitch.com
or sewandso.co.uk, just trying to think of other ones,
JoAnn’s, any Michaels, any of those shops will have the basics. Whether they have
the more specialty needles I’m not sure, but you can check it out and see what
you find. And that’s it for now, I hope you have a great day. If you have any questions please feel free to let me know. Up in
the top right of your screen you’re gonna see a little pop up for some free
patterns that you can get off of my site, if you want to access those just click
that link. If you liked this video please subscribe, more subscribers actually
really helps more people like you find these videos. And I hope you have a
fantastic day, bye for now!

17 thoughts on “Cross stitch needles: choosing the best needle for you”

  1. I ordered the Magic Guide needle and I received it this week and I love it! I have already ordered a few more in case I lose one! It glides through the fabric and I’m not sticking myself all the time!

  2. Very informative, I'm excited to try the twin points and the easy guide. Thank you for all the time and effort you put in for us the public. It's much appreciated

  3. Dana, thank you for your videos, they are amazing…. I have a question what table stand do you recommend, to have my hands free and work on the project, I see part of yours here in this video but I will like to know your recommendation. thanks again

  4. I have one of those twin pointed needles, I've had it forever and I don't know where I got it, It's just been sitting in a pin cushion because I didn't know what it's practical use was. Now I know, I'll try it out on my large project next time I pull it out to work on.

  5. Thank you so much for your very informative videos! I’m new to cross stitching, I was wondering if there was anything you could do to prevent your needles from turning black, or what to do once they do? Thank you in advance!

  6. Thank you for this video. I'm going to try the Easy Guide needle. Have a 14 count to stitch. Will try on 16 and 18 count. I appreciate the tutorials. You give clear instructions and demonstrate so we can see what you're doing.

  7. Am i right in thinking that a twin needle would be quite a bit faster for a bigger project, im. Ot brand new to cross stitch, but its been years and i want to give embroidery on clothing a go.

  8. Your videos are so helpful, thank you! I'm curious what you think of gold-plated embroidery needles ~ I really love the way they feel & glide initially, but I also find the finish seems to wear off quite fast. Do you like them? Is there any fix for that, or do you just have to keep replacing them frequently? Seems like such a waste.

  9. Thank you for your lovely videos & oh so snarky designs!

    Fun fact: wire & needle gauge numbers refer to 1/3 the number of times the wire was pulled to achieve the desired diameter. For example, a size 20 needle or wire is pulled 60 times, while a size 24 needle or wire is pulled 72 times. That is why the number increases as the size decreases.

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