What happens when you combine velvet and knit
together? You get stretch velvet. Not only does that mean you get comfort and
elegance in one fabric, but also some of the trickiness that go with each type of fabric. When using stretch velvet, pick patterns made
for knits. Loose, drapey garments with few pattern pieces
that are simply constructed are ideal. Avoid things with complex details or fasteners
like buttonholes or zippers. Tips to know before cutting out your fabric: Stretch Velvet is considered a fabric with
nap so you might consider purchasing at least a quarter yard extra. Pretreat the fabric before cutting. Check the care tag instructions. Many stretch velvets can be machine washed
and dried. When storing, roll the fabric instead of folding
it, with the right side on the inside because it’s not an easy fabric to press. Prep your patterns by marking an arrow on
them, pointing down from the top of the pattern. This will help us with the pattern layout. Velvet fabric has a texture. You’ll notice by running your hand across
it, one direction will feel smoother than the opposite direction. Typically, you want the smooth direction to
go down the body, but you can do it the opposite way as well. Smooth down the body will result in glossier
looking fabric. Rough down the body will result in a deeper
color. Lay out your fabric in a single layer on your
cutting mat. Place the patterns in your preferred direction
referencing the arrow on your pattern pieces to ensure they’re all going in the same
direction. Because the fabric is also a knit, we have
to consider the stretch in our layout as well. The direction with the greatest degree of
stretch should be going around the body which makes it perpendicular to our grainline arrow. Double check to make sure this is the case
with your layout. Once you have your layout, use fabric weights
to hold the patterns and a rotary cutter to cut them out. A rotary cutter is ideal compared to scissors
because you won’t accidentally stretch the fabric. Don’t forget that if you need to cut two
from a pattern, to cut one and then flip it and cut again. This means you end up with two opposite pieces:
a left and right piece. If a pattern needs to be placed on a fold,
instead cut half of it, not cutting on the side that says place on fold. Then carefully flip it over and resume cutting,
so you end up with a single full piece. If you need to mark the fabric, use fabric
chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. When pinning seams, use a lot of straight
pins or fabric clips. If you do use pins, keep them within the seam
allowance so you don’t risk damaging the fabric that will be seen. If you’re worried about the fabric feeding
through the sewing machine unevenly, do a hand basting stitch to attach the two pieces
together or use a walking foot. For a sewing needle, you’ll want to choose
something with a ballpoint tip, like a stretch needle, size 80/12. For thread, you can use an all purpose. The presser foot can be a standard one or
a walking foot. When sewing a seam, I do a narrow zig zag
stitch or a stretch stitch to allow some stretch to it. Don’t start completely at the end of the
fabric but a little ways in. Sew all your seams in the same direction,
from the top of garment to the bottom. If the fabric is being difficult while feeding
through the machine, lay a strip of tissue paper on top of it and this should help. When finished, just tear the tissue paper
off. To finish the seams, if you don’t have a
serger, you can use an overcast seam on your machine or trim the seams with pinking shears. For pressing, place the fabric wrong side
up on a velvet needle board or plush towel. Use the steam from the iron or finger press. If you put a hot iron directly on the fabric,
you could damage it so be careful. If you need to use interfacing, you should
use sew-in interfacing. For necklines, consider doing a knit facing
instead. You can watch our video tutorial if you need
help with this. If your garment requires buttonholes, consider
doing thread button loops instead. Check our video for help. For hemming, keep it simple. Finish or pink the raw edge and fold your
hem allowance to the wrong side. You can hand or machine blind hem if you don’t
want the hem to show. Another option is using the twin needle so
the hem maintains some of its stretch. Sewing with stretch velvet feels intimidating
but it’s actually more forgiving than woven velvet and can produce some beautiful results. If you have tips for working with this type
fabric, let us know in the comments below. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please subscribe and click the bell icon to
get notified of our new releases. Also, check out Professorpincushion.com to
view our complete library with well over 450 sewing tutorials. If you would like to directly support us,
you can join our YouTube Membership and earn some exclusive perks. Thanks for watching.

6 thoughts on “How to Sew With Stretch Velvet”

  1. I was planning to learn how to sew velvet this year and this video comes up at perfect time . Thank you ❤️❤️

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *