Another critical component that you need
when you’re doing bead weaving is obviously a needle to use with your thread and there’s actually a surprising number of
options that you have for beading needles now I do suggest that you use an actual
beading needle there are all sorts of different sewing
needles and quilting needles and tapestry needles and all sorts of things
like that out there on the market but beading needles
are made specifically for beaders their sizes that will matchup with a instructions when
you’re looking at them in magazines or books or in certain people’s patterns they will usually recommend a size
needle that you need and the beading needle sizes match up
with that so that’s one of the reasons I suggest the beading needles there’s
basically three major manufacturers that are out there that I am familiar with let me show you what they are John James
needles are what I learned on and they are made in England they for a period I would say a couple, it’s been at least
4 or 5 years now for a while they started having them made
in China and I when I first learned on their
fabulous needles and I had no problem with them whatsoever never broke a needle and then when they
started manufacturing them in China and you can tell where they were
manufactured by looking on the back of the package all of a sudden I started breaking
needles left and right and breaking a needle is no fun because it ends up sometimes you can actually hurt yourself
when it breaks and plus sometimes it can cause problems
with your beadwork and that kind of thing so I stopped using John James needles
when they moved their manufacturing to China they
realized the errors of their ways pretty quickly and now if you look at current packaging it will
say made in England and they are now gone back to a more sturdy needle that you can
trust again so if you’re going to buy John James needles you’ll want to look at the package if
you’re looking at it in person make sure that it’s the made in England ones because
there’s still the Chinese ones out there but if it’s online you might even want
to email the online source and make sure that
they’re the made in England ones. Pony needles are a slightly less expensive version of needles and this is what I use in
all of my kits I include these in my beading kits is the
ponies and it’s what I use most often at home is the pony brand needles and then a couple years ago now we’ve had a brand
new manufacturer come out of Japan and it’s the Tulip
company and they their needles come in these cute little test
tubes and they’re more expensive you get 4 needles I think it retails for
$4.95 for the sizes that I use which are their
size 10 and their size 11 $4.95 for 4 needles but what’s great about these needles is
that they do not bend and what I mean by that is let me show
you this needle here this is one that I’ve been working with
and see how it’s got this distinct bend to it that is a pony needle that I was using
and any time I’m using a size twelve pony needle I can pretty much guarantee you by the
time I’m done with my project and I’ll show you just kinda how easy it is to
bend this I will end up having bent it at a 90
degree angle just like that in my hand because of the way I’m going to move and
maneuvering in and out of the beads so basically I go through one needle a
project if I’m using the pony needles which isn’t a problem big problem
because they are so inexpensive pack of 25 I sell on my website for two
dollars so they’re not expensive but it’s just a
pain in the butt cuz you’re always throwing away needles the beauty of the tulip needles is
that I will lose a size twelve Tulip needle before I bend it and they actually have a size 11 not
which is an unusual size I use the 11 most often size 10 as a little bit
bigger one other reasons to use a size 10
needle and this is true of all three of these different brands is they come in so the John James
and the pony come in tens and twelves the Tulips come in 10’s, 11’s and 12’s the 12 in the tulips are significantly
more expensive and that’s why I go to I use the 10’s and 11’s most often one other little thing about the needles is sizing and a size 10 needle will be a little bit thicker, you won’t be able to bend it in your hand quite as easily which doesn’t mean you can’t bend that
while you’re beading with it but it’s it’s a little more sturdy so its
also got a bigger eye which means it’s easier to thread your
needle however if you’re using a lot of small
beads and going through there multiple
times with multiple passes you’re gonna start having a problem with a
size 10 needle and so that’s when you would want to go down to a size twelve
needle A 12 needle has a lot more flex to it and
that’s why when I use those 12’s I get those real bendy the ones it does have a smaller eye to it so you
can have a little bit more difficulty getting your thread threaded in
there but is not impossible so that’s a way to get more passes through a small
bead and then they also make what they call
sharps and sharps our little you’ll notice the
difference in length here sharps our little short needles and
frequently women who come from a quilting
background are familiar with the Sharps so they’re just smaller they still come
in size 10 and size 11 or I’m sorry, size 10 size and size 12 but just
the shorter ones so you might want experiment with the
two sizes and see which is more comfortable for you the long or the
sharp I actually very rarely use the sharp
because it makes my hand cramp if I use ’em too often but women who come from like I
said from a quilting background were real comfortable with the shorter needle that’s an easier needle
for them to use when a sharp is really a good thing to
have around is when you have a tight turn or you’re having trouble getting an angle in your bead weaving having a
shorter needle can sometimes help you out there you also and this is something that I
don’t have with me here but there are also size 13 needles and size 13 needles are for those of us who
love things that are little teeny tiny and that means little teeny tiny beads
these days the holes in size 15 beads or 13 Charlottes are better than they used to be and so
usually you can get away with a size twelve needle but sometimes you’re going to have those
tight little spots and you’ll need to go down to a size 13 needle and you really really have to flatten
that end of your fire line or your thread to be able to get through that that eye on a size 13 so for you beginners I would really
suggest 10’s, 11’s, 12’s stick with those and then as you get more proficient and
start getting into more detail work then you might wanna start looking at
the size 13 [needles] I have all these different brands on my
available for sale on my website I wanna add one last thing and that is I
have had some questions from people about whether you can use a
big eye needle using beadweaving my answer is you can, but you
really kinda don’t want to the reason being that a big eye needle
will chew up your thread at the edges and it causes weak spots in your thread and then also because it’s so much
longer than one of our beading needles you’ll have trouble getting some, doing
some maneuvering so I highly suggest not using a big eye
needle and going with one of the beading needles that i’ve
talked about here today I hope that helps you we don’t want you
to have any obstacles to becoming part of our little beady world so let’s see what happens, thank you!

27 thoughts on “Tools & Materials Overview: Needles”

  1. I have used the Tulip needles and do like them. The other one that I like are the Beadsmith, I guess they are what you refer to as sharpie. Great lesson. Thank you Jill.

  2. A very frustrating thing I have discovered is that the Beadalon needles have a habit of bending or breaking at the eye when trying to thread. Stay away from those.

  3. Great video as always Jill. I've always wondered what the deal was when it came to needles it can be overwhelming you know. Thanks for explaining it.😉

  4. hola un abrazo y un saludo afectuoso lo que en Mexico no encontramos son las seed beads de diferentes tamaños no hay aca no las encontramos como nos las podias enviar junto con ahujas e hilos fire line muchas gracias por prestar atención a mi mensaje

  5. Have you ever used Miyuki Extra Fine Beading Needles – 6pc + Threader?  These are available at the on-line beading store I shop at in Oz.

  6. You were so right, I recently used John James needles made in China – the coating came off half way through a small project and had to change needles.

  7. bonjour, je vous écris de FRANCE , je ne comprend pas se que vous expliquez, car la traduction ne veut rien dire , mais je voudrai savoir si le fil fireline correspond à du fil tressé que l'on se sert pour la pêche et de quelle grosseur est il ? merci d'avance pour la réponse

  8. Мне очень нравиться ваши видео!!! Скажите пожалуйста а где это всё можно купить?

  9. John James also come in size 13, which are really handy if your beads start to really fill up with thread…

    Opps posted this before you got to the mention of 13 lol..

  10. I am new to beading and really appreciate your humor and teaching style. I have tried beading youtube from various channels but it can get confusing. Everyone has a little different twist. I find I love your technique and will be following all your tutorials. Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful talent! Marie

  11. Thank you for this information! I was not familiar with the Tulip brand and just love them. I use big eye needles a lot. Do you have any recommendation for a good brand? I use stretchy cord with those needles.

  12. I really love using size 15 BeadSmith needles. I discovered them recently trying to do a really tight herringbone project with really small beads. Beadsmith needles are ok, they bend a lot but not so much that it's a real problem. A needle usually lasts me 5-6 projects, 3-4 encasements, but the size 15 bends very very easily.
    What I usually do is work with size 12 and when I get to a real tight spot I swap out my needle to a size 15, that way my needles don't bend or break as much. Swapping needles mid-project can really prolong the life of your needles.

  13. I love beading. Unfortunately I can't see well enough to thread a regular needle. I also have a problem with the thread coming off the needle while I'm pulling it through my project. I mainly use Big Eye needles. The thread is secured where the two needles are welded together and I can thread the needle easily. I do have size 12 for when I have to run the thread through size 15 seed beads many times.

  14. Jill I cannot thank you enough for your amazing overview videos! I am a beginner and I am so excited to learn all these amazing designs and projects from you. My birthday is tomorrow (yup a New Year's Baby.. lol) it's my big 4-0 😫..lol but I am treating myself to some product so I can get started this week. Can't wait to create some beautiful pieces for myself and my family and friends for gifts. Thank you again for sharing your time and amazing talent with us. You have truly inspired me to take my love of crafting a step farther and get into jewelery. Happy New Year!!

  15. Thank you Jill. I was always afraid to try a Tulip needle because I thought a needle that doesn't bend would be more brittle.

  16. The size 13 needles In John James made in China break easy. I went through 4 needles already tonight. Bummer.

  17. I have just been beading (prolifically haha) for a few months, but I kinda disagree about the big eye needle. I find if I thread the end coming off the spool, I get very little shredding of the thread – and I never have the thread slip out ot the needle like conventional needles. I can thread it with just a 1'' tail and f it starts to shred, I just clip it shorter (it only shreds AT the needle). The ease of threading those needles with my 51 year old eyes and the fact that the thread does NOT slip out of the needle has sold me on these needles.

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